Start with garlicky snails in a phyllo basket, cognac-cured gravadlax and wasabi sour cream, or black mussels are steamed in cider, garlic and turmeric. For mains, go for the pork spare ribs – and use your hands. Someone at the table must have the pepper rump, and there’s a glorious brinjal-and-courgette bake for vegetarians.
